DORIAN RAYGOZA, designer
About: For the SS16 collection we invited fellow designer and nascent style icon Dorian Raygoza, who devised a total look from six yards of the No Commitment polka dot print, inspired by ideas of dissonance, discomfort, costume, and persona. His wide, high-waisted pants and short-sleeved jacket transpose the textile as tailored but loose-fitting, distinct yet gender-neutral, vintage and also very much modern. It’s a silhouette of inclusion and possibilities, of changing moods and changing truths. Dorian wrote a text for the look book:
Good sportswear gives the body something familiar while giving the eyes something new.
When HAiK w/ invited me to collaborate using one of their prints, I was excited. HAiK w/ is unpretentious but thoughtful. They make the best kind of sportswear.
Whenever I see several yards of the same print it’s hard for me not to think of Rudi Gernreich. Head-to-toe print has certainly never been realized with greater success than by Gernreich. For him, there was no boundary between what was chic and what was completely ridiculous.
There is an austerity and comedy in wearing the same print on top and bottom. It also bestows the wearer with a sense of intention, and graphic interest.
The most obvious expression of print-on-print, for me, is a pantsuit, so I thought that would be a good start. I thought of obvious contrasts: short sleeve cropped jacket with a high-waisted full slack. I found a 5’’ wide elastic band, which excited me. It acted like a control panel.
I love any kind of specialty garment – maternity and shapewear are always good points of reference for me. A turtleneck with a built-in thumb sleeve, in a double knit, seemed like the kind of ludicrous but irresistible layering you’d find in the age of Gernreich and Courreges.
I thought the whole thing should be styled in the tradition of Heino and Lagerfeld. There’s something about the Teutonic tradition of starkness that is always at least a little cartoonish. My friend Jeffrey Baum did the makeup and photography. He gets my shorthand: “I want it to look dry.” I think he succeeded.
I wanted to take the look into nature, like Divine crossing a river in Desperate Living. I love putting anything unnatural in a natural setting. It’s a very human instinct.
On location I felt very much like fashion. I love fashion as a base cliché. Fashion takes all the ugliness out of life. In the end I think I may have inadvertently created a fashion ad: blunt, distant, beautiful, and pensive. It makes you want to buy whatever is in the picture.
Luckily, I’m a real bargain.